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Everything but the Kitchen Sink Lighting Class

We have locked in the dates for a new class.  A Guide to Understanding Light is a comprehensive and fundamental instruction in all things lighting.  This means everything from better understanding light that exists in a scene so you know how to make the most of it to breaking out the big studio strobes to completely engineering your own creative vision. 

Whether you are family shooter, hobbyist, amateur or pro, everyone will benefit from this course.  We will be using a variety of products in the second and third sessions including some of my favorite Westcott products from the Apollo line and the uLite series from the Photo Basics line.  The latter are some of the best entry level constant light kits currently available.  I just purchased the Apollo Orb with the Orb Grid for a lightweight on location portrait lighting system and absolutely love it.  

Come join us for three great evenings in April.

robertscamera.com/classes



MINE IS BIGGER THAN YOURS! The myth of sensor size.

SensorSizes

 

Hi friends! Today I want to address sensor sizes. With the new crop of inexpensive full frame cameras out like the Nikon D600 and the Canon 6d everyone wants to talk about sensors sizes. I want to attempt to clarify some miss conceptions about “bigger is always better”. Does a bigger sensor give you better picture quality? The simple answer is sometimes. What I mean by that is in photography we almost never get anything without giving up something. So if we are going to have a bigger sensor we are going to have to have a bigger more expensive camera and bigger and more expensive lenses. We are probably going to gain better low light and better shadow and highlight detail. I say probably because a 6 year old full frame sensor might not be able to match image quality with a newer smaller sensor because the technology of sensor making changes constantly. On top of that what if your a bird photographer? If I am using a smaller sensor camera like the Nikon D7000 vs the full frame sensor like the Nikon D600 because the sensor is smaller in the D7000 I gain more magnification from my lenses. So if the 70-200mm f2.8 lenses is what I like to use, in order to get the same magnification with a D600 I would need a 300mm f2.8 lens, which will not zoom, is twice the size, and over twice the price. So now lets turn this debate around and argue for the full frame. What if I am shooting some extreme low light like weddings, or indoor sports like basketball, now a camera like a Canon 6d would shine. At higher ISO like 3200 the new full frame camera’s are better than anything any of us have ever had before. In the old days of film (or with old timers like Jonathan) 800 ISO was considered fast, now on a regular basis I shoot well past 4000 ISO and have much better results. This allows me to hand hold in much more conditions than ever before. The full frame also excels in landscape photography. A landscape photographer usually wants as much detail as possible. The full frame has more dynamic range which means there will be less blown out highlights and less blocked up shadows. So we get much more natural looking pictures. As you can tell there is no perfect sensor size or perfect camera. As any good carpenter has multiple hammers, any good photographer will have multiple cameras. The only way to know for sure which cameras are perfect for you is to come on in to the store and try some out. The best thing going for us photographers today is all of the new cameras are amazing, it just depends on what you shoot and what you need.



Mythbusting Part 3: Faster SD Cards Give You Photos With Less Blur

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Continuing our series of posts dispelling myths commonly repeated in some corners of the internet (or by less scrupulous retailers), we come up to the last of our entries based on a misunderstanding of the digital world and how it works, as opposed to the analog film world. Today’s myth:

A faster SD card will let your camera take faster photos, resulting in shots with less blur.

While a lot of you may be rolling your eyes at this, we have heard it come up before. So, for those of you who don’t know, there’s only one aspect of any camera that ultimately controls all blur in a photograph: shutter speed. A faster shutter will stop both blur from your own shaky hands, as well as from moving subject. Other things can help you get faster shutter speeds, like bigger apertures, or higher ISOs. Image stabilization can help reduce blur cause by you holding the camera, but not for moving subjects. But, your memory card never plays a part in this.

In film, a faster film really would have helped images have less blur. That’s because in the film days, film was both the determiner of your ISO as well as your storage medium. While memory cards are your storage medium in digital, they no longer play any role in determining ISO. That’s all down to the sensor. When you take a digital photo, your camera records some data into a temporary buffer that’s built into the camera. Then, to be saved, that data has to be written to a memory card. This is where the speed of a memory card really comes into play. The faster the memory card can write data, the faster the camera can empty its buffer. The faster it empties the buffer, the faster it can add new photos to it. So, a faster card can help, but it helps you take more photos in a continuous burst.

But it can’t make your photos have less blur. There’s a lot of stuff that can help you there, including faster lenses, flashes, or a camera with a sensor that can use faster ISOs. But not your SD card. So, be wary of anyone trying to tell you differently. Because we have heard of it happening.



Mythbusting Part 2: The Quality of My Digital Image is Dependent on the Quality of My Card

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Show of hands– who reading this remembers film? You know, film, that plasticky stuff you used to load into cameras that let you take pictures? Yeah, that stuff. In general, it was easy to know where you stood with film. The more it cost, the better it probably was. Sure, you could get a $5 roll from Wal-Mart, but the $8 roll from a camera shop like, say, us was probably going to be better stuff. Better colors, better detail. You could have the best lens going, but if you were using cheap film you’d have a softer, grainier photo than with the good stuff.

And then digital came along and messed everything up. In digital, the “film” is essentially baked in as a function of the sensor, and the image isn’t comfrotingly recorded as corrosion of silver particles, but instead as a series of 1s and 0s called binary. Which eventually leads us to this being a thing:

The Myth: Image Quality is Correlated to the Quality Of My Memory Card

Better film yielded better photos, and the memory card (be it SD or CF) serves a similar purpose in digital, so, it should also dictate quality too, right? Wrong. Film was an anlalog medium. The images was made up of corroded silver grains. The better the emulsion, the finer the silver grains, the better the color packs, the better the image got. The digital equivalents of all of that are in the camera’s sensor, and the maximum quality you can achieve with those is decided the moment you buy the camera. All the memory card lets you do is write those 1s and 0s somewhere else, but a 1 is a 1 no matter how much you paid for the memory card. There aren’t better 1s and better 0s to be had.

So then, why do some memory cards cost a lot, and some not? If it’s not about image quality, what’s it actually about? Well, it comes down to a few things. One is stability. More expensive cards are often more “stable,” or less likely to become corrupt or damaged over repeated use or the occasional drop. If a card becomes damaged or corrupted, then images will be unrecoverable, so, more stable is good. Another factor is speed. A good memory card can write the image from the camera much faster, and a computer can read it back off the card much faster. This lets you take more pictures in a burst, record longer video clips, and spend less time importing photos. A third factor that sometimes comes up is actual build quality. Some high-end cards like Hoodman’s Raw Steel line are made from metal instead of plastic, and are ruggedized and water-sealed to keep them safe from harm through trying situations.

But, what a good card can’t do is give you a higher quality image. In digital, that’s down simply to your lens and sensor combination (and, you know, your skill, but we’re focusig on the gear end here). If anyone tries to tell you different, trust us, you’re getting taken.



Mythbusting Part 1: Opening JPGs Causes Them To Degrade

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Hello everyone, and welcome back to Roberts Raw! It’s a bright and shiny new year out there, and we’re in the dark, cold land between major shows and product announcements. As such, we thought we’d take some time while we can to do a short series of posts covering some common myths and misconceptions about the modern (ie, mostly digital) photo world. And, since everything in digital comes down to the file, we thought we’d start with this doozy:

The Myth: Opening and closing a JPG repeatedly degrades the file and causes data loss.

Often seen as a explanation for why JPGs are called “lossy” compressions, this is one of those assertions that betrays a poor grasp of the underlying technologies that make digital photo possible. The simple truth is, a JPG to your camera and computer is just a series of 1s and 0s that make a file. When you open it they get read off the disk into memory. But, they don’t wear out. They’re still just ones and zeroes. There are some things that can cause a JPG to lose data (or, as it’s called, become “corrupted”), but those are usually things like bad memory cards or hard drives, things that cause bits of the data sequence to be forgotten. But, while that’s a good argument for keeping backups of all your photos, it doesn’t lend any weight to the idea that opening your JPGs will slowly make them look worse. Open and close and move them around as much as you want to, they’ll be exactly the same each time.

So, what does lossy mean then? And why are TIFF and other raw formats that are “lossless” better? Well, lossy means that some information is being thrown away while that series of ones and zeros is being calculated. This is done in various ways, but always for the same reason: to save file size. JPGs do it by looking at small chunks of your photo and merging very, very similar spots of color into one bigger field of the same color. This means there’s less data to write, and that means smaller pictures. Plus, as a bonus, if done well most people in most situations won’t see the difference anyway. Lossless files don’t do this. They keep everything about the original photo. Every color at every pixel is recorded. This means that you have a lot more to work with in post-processing, truer colors, and smoother gradients. But, depending on how it’s done, you will have larger to much, much larger files than with a lossy format like JPG.

But, they’ll all still open as many times as you want without any loss of quality that wasn’t decided when they were written*.

 

*Again, if the disk the file is on gets damaged during reading or writing the file, the corruption can occur, but that’s unrelated to actually reading the file, it’s just because where the data used to be went away. Also, if you edit a file in an editor like Photoshop and then save it over the original, you can make changes that will reduce quality. But only if you choose to save them. Simply having opened the file will not alter the original data in any way.

 



You Asked Us: What’s The Weight Difference Between the D600 and D800?

Recently, I was asked by a customer via our nifty contact button on the right-hand side of the blog (you might have to scroll down a bit) what the weight difference between the D600 and the D800 was. While I’d normally dismiss this for the blog purposes, since it’s just a spec sheet matter, I’m actually glad it was asked this time. Because, it turns out while Nikon can make them some cameras, they’re not quite as good with a unit converter. At least initially, they had the weight of the D600 in ounces much more than it should have been, given the grams it weighed, resulting in a camera that weighed more than the larger D800. Luckily, both our site and theirs has that fixed now, but, just for everyone curious, here’s the skinny:

The D600 weighs 26.8 ounces, or 760 grams if you like. The D800 is heavier, weighing in at 31.7 ounces, or 900 grams. That makes the D600 almost 3 ounces lighter than it’s big bro. The legendary D700, for comparison, weighed 35 ounces, or 995 grams. That makes the D600 fully 8 ounces lighter than the out-going champ. That’s an adequate sized cheeseburger’s difference in weight. The D800 is only about 3 ounces and change lighter than its predecessor, but considering it moved up to 100% viewfinder coverage–and should have therefore been heavier–that’s no small feat.

And now you know. If you have any other questions, feel free to ask us. That’s what we’re here for.

 



Nikon D4 AC adapter – Yes, you CAN!

A little birdie told me that, if you look at page #391 in your  Nikon D4 manual, you will read that the EP-6 adapter is compatible to the EH-6 AC adapter as well as the EH-6B.  The 6B is the newest pro DSLR adapter from Nikon and is unfortunately on the “hard to get a hold of any stock what-so-ever” list.   So here’s a tip from your friendly, neighborhood camera store:  The Nikon EH-6 (originally for use with the D2H and replaced with the EH-6A) will provide constant power to the camera when used with the EP-6.  If you have made the leap to a D4 from a earlier model Nikon pro-sumer (D200, D300) or pro (D700, D2x, D3) level camera, its entirely possible that you have purchased one of the previous EH-6 adapters.  The EP-6 adapters are available.



ISO: Native Vs Extended

From a Nikon D700 at ISO 6,400

If you’ve shopped for a DSLR… well, pretty much ever, you might notice reviewers, blogs, and spec sheets often list two sets of ISO ranges the camera has. One will be smaller, and often called “native,” and the other range will be bigger and use words like “push” or “extended.” And, you might be wondering what exactly a “native” ISO is, and how it differs from those “extended” ISOs, and maybe why most people tend to ignore the extended ones when discussing how well a camera does. And that’s what we hope to clear up today.

Like a stereo, your camera’s sensor moves between ISO settings by increasing the “gain,” or how much the values received at the pixels are amplified. The higher the ISO, the more gain. The native ISO range of a sensor is what settings you can access just by changing the gain. See, the problem is, sensors don’t just get noise from the environment (“shot” noise), a lot of noise is actually caused by the sensor picking up on thermal variations, or getting electron interference from its own circuitry. The more you amplify these readings, the more two things happen. One, you amplify the noise with the signal. Two, you send more juice through the sensor, possibly introducing even more noise from that. So, sensors are designed as best as they can be to perform with a high signal-to-noise at any of their gain settings. These form the physical, real ISO settings for your camera.

But, in today’s ISO wars, that’s not always enough. Much like optical zooms on point-and-shoots are supported by digital zoom when you need to get even closer, ISO ranges on DSLRs are supported by extended ranges. These extended ISOs don’t change the gain on the sensor. This is done with either push ISOs (ISOs higher than the highest native ISO), or pull ISOs (ISOs lower than the lowest native setting). In the case of a push ISO, what happens is the camera increases the sensor gain as high as it can go. Then, it’ll take a picture at it, but under expose it by a stop. This way, the exposure time matches a higher ISO. Then, the processor adds one stop of value to all the values recorded. Or two stops. Or three. however many push ISO settings your model may have. This is why push ISO settings fall apart faster than native ISO ones. They’re no longer altering sensor gain, but taking an under-exposed, high-ISO image and pushing the exposure up. Much like you’d do in Lightroom for an underexposed image. Actually, pretty much exactly like that, except at the data level.

A pull ISO works the same way. For example, many Nikon cameras had a lowest native ISO of 200. But, for a lot of reasons, many people like shooting at ISO 100. Enter a pull ISO for 100. What happens is the camera exposes an image at ISO 200 (the lowest gain setting) for the same time as an ISO 100 exposure would be. Then it pulls all the values down one stop. If pulling up all the noise is the bane of push ISOs, highlight clipping is the bane of pull ISOs. Again, for the same reasons as you’d have in post. if you accidentally expose an image too long, you can pull a lot of it down, but, you’ll find sometimes bright areas have already saturated to pure white, and there’s nothing to recover. On a model like a D700, there’s a lot of headroom for that, and it’s rare to clip with just 1 stop of overexposure. So, it’s rare to see clipping in the pull ISO 100. But, every model differs, as does every scene. At the end, you’re still taking an overexposed picture at a higher ISO and then pulling it back.

So, why use extended ISOs at all? Well, they’re admittedly handy if you’re a JPG shooter. or a journalist where getting the shot at all matters more than clipping and or noise. But, if you’re a raw shooter, you can mimic the settings yourself by just dialing in a stop or two of exposure compensation on either end of your native ISO range, and then fixing it in post. It’s the same process, except you’ll have a bit more control over it.

By the way, I’m sure this has all been horrendously familiar for you film shooters, since push and pull developing has been used for ages to do exactly this same trick, but in an analog format. But, there it is. Your native ISO range is what your camera’s sensor can actually do through the much better manipulation of its gain. The extended ranges are just the processor doing some push or pull developing for you at the data level, but there’s no more adjusting the actual sensor. And now you know, and as 80s cartoons taught me, that’s half the battle.



Fuji X-Pro1 Amazingness and Other Such Goodies

Hello Readers,

I dont know about you, but ever since Fuji announced the X-Pro1 in January i have been anxiously waiting to put it through its paces.   This is my extremely cursory upfront first impression review.

WOW!  Wowsers!  Yep…speechless.  Almost.

I have seen some great shots from this camera out there on the internet.  The tonal value of the black and white images have especially impressed me.   Unfortunately, the internet can’t tell you everything you need to know about a camera.  It can’t tell you how it feels in your hands, how well it balances or if the dials move smoothly and precisely.  Fuji nailed it.  This camera is more friendly to operate than the little brother and award winning X100.  I was up and running at full speed within 10 minutes of first holding the camera.  Its EASY.  For the nostalgic, old school, rangefinder photo bugs, you will be right at home.

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Imaging Resource Explains What’s Going On With The D800E’s Low Pass Filter

Getting all giddy about the idea of a super-resolution 36.3 megapixel sensor? not afraid of having to deal with the occasional color shift and moire issues? Been studying low-pass filters on cameras for ages? Wanting to know just exactly how Nikon is proposing to fulfill on its promises of greater resolution with the D800E, while still compensating for things like UV cut-off and other low-pass features? Well, Imaging Resource has something you want to read then. Namely, just how it is that the D800E’s low-pass will differ from a traditional one.

Curious? Hit the external link and bask in the knowledge.